IMPORTANT - Upon purchasing a pup from me,you will be provided with a diet sheet.It will contain what, and when the pup was fed.
also what to feed in the future! ANY changes in diet MUST be ok'd by me first, otherwise your health guarantee will be void!!!!!!!!!!
NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!
FEEDING GREAT DANES,
ESPECIALLY PUPPIES
by Jill Swedlow
Danes are a giant breed. The amount of growing they have to do to reach adult size in comparison to say, a Golden Retriever, is enormous. In only a year, almost full skeletal size is reached. Compare that to the very slow growth of a human who essentially reaches the same size and weight at adulthood. With bones forming and reforming so quickly, it isn't surprising that much can go wrong in a short time.
Vets and breeders used to think that it was necessary for giant breeds to consume huge quantities of protein, calcium, phosphorous and vitamin D in order to reach their adult full potential. Several extensive research projects have proven that over-nutrition and, worse, over supplementation with calcium, can be the causative agents in the many growth problems in the giant breeds. Now, informed breeders strive to keep growth steady but slow! Great Dane menus are properly balanced and protein is kept to around 24% or lower, especially during the fast growth stages of puppyhood.
I wanted to write an article to help people learn how to read a dog food label in order to select the best quality food. As my research progressed, I became convinced that NO manufactured dog food is really the best way to feed dogs. Some of the ingredients in some of the lower quality foods are frightening. Animals with cancers, animals that have been euthanized (perhaps including pets) with lethal injection (and the chemicals are still in their bodies) animals that are unclean, ad nauseum, literally!
Because most dog foods are completely balanced for all stages of growth, you'll upset the delicate balances if you start adding calcium and other unnecessary items. If the kibble you use does not add vitamin C, this is one supplement you might want to use. 500 mg AM and PM is good. Although dogs can manufacture their own vitamin C, it can't hurt to give them a little extra.
Its helpful to learn a bit about how to read and interpret the labels on dog foods. Poultry meal and poultry by-products are most definately not the same ingredient. Any ingredient which is designated as "by-products" is most likely stuff like beaks, feathers and feet, basically unusable protein sources for dogs. Poultry meal means that the whole chicken has been utilized. Also protein levels can be misleading depending on the source of the protein. A dog food label can list 28% protein but if it's derived from leather dust, the dog will never be able to utilize it. The first ingredient listed on the label must be the highest percentage of the food. Therefore if you see poultry meal as the first ingredient, the chances are that it's a higher quality food. If grains make up the bulk of the first ingredients, beware. This is not to say that just because grain is the first listed ingredient, that the food is no good.
It is also helpful to educate yourself about preservatives. I always avoid foods that use any kind of chemical as a preservative, especially those containing ethoxyquin or BHT. I also avoid any food that uses tomato pomace. This is the left over parts of tomatoes after they've had anything good taken out of them for human use. Now, this in itself isn't particularly bad, but what is left over contains the highest concentration of insecticides of almost any by-product you can name, especially the tomato skin! No thank you!
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Just what are the nutritional needs of these rapidly growing large and giant breed puppies?
Controlled growth, optimum levels of calcium and phosphorus, essential fatty acids as well as specific natural ingredients to enhance development are all essential elements in an optimum natural formula for a large or giant breed puppy. If growth is not controlled and calcium levels are in excess,the puppy
can have an increased risk of contracting one of several developmental
bone diseases, all of which are very painful and can have permanent
detrimental effects on the puppy’s quality of life.
Traditional puppy diets are designed with lots of protein and fat so as to
provide large amounts of calories. Large and giant breed puppies do not do
well on these diets and for that reason large and giant breed formulas were
developed.
1. Controlled Growth:
If too many calories are consumed, the rate of growth will be increased. This is to be avoided. Too many calories increases weight too rapidly on the developing bones and can increase the stress on developing bones and raise the risk of encouraging developmental bone problems. These puppies should be fed an amount of food that maintains a slightly lean body condition, at least until they are approximately 10-12 months of age.
2. Calcium and Phosphorus Levels:
Most would assume that large and giant breed puppies would need more calcium and phosphorus than a smaller breed puppy, as their bone structure is so much bigger. On the contrary, they actually need slightly less calcium. Too much calcium can also increase the incidence of any one of those very painful developmental bone diseases. The challenge is to provide just enough calcium to reduce the risk of bone problems while supplying levels that allow for maximum growth potential. As long as you are feeding a balanced diet, never supplement a large and giant breed puppy with a mineral supplement.
3. Certain Essential Fatty Acids:
Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) is an essential Omega-3 fatty acid that has been found to enhance brain development in puppies. It is important that these giant, and in some cases large breeds, are well trained so that control is maintained. By providing natural, functional food ingredients that support proper brain development, puppies have been found to be more easily trained in the basic obedience commands.
4. Probiotics or Direct Fed Microbials (DFMs):
Probiotics are the essential “good bacteria” that play a key role in establishing the normal flora of the gut so that proper digestion is achieved. They have the natural benefit of also enhancing the immune system early on in the puppy’s life. By feeding a daily diet that contains these natural organisms, the digestive system and immune system will be at optimum efficiency all the time.
5. Prebiotics
Prebiotics are the essential foods necessary to keep the probiotics or DFMs healthy and happy. They are natural ingredients that have benefit specifically to the good bacteria, as well as additional advantages for the puppy.
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It’s always best to feed regularly as opposed to leaving food out for your puppy at all times. This will help control rate of growth. Likewise, try and avoid feeding just before and just after exercise to reduce the chances of “bloat”, another potential problem for some breeds. Giving a puppy the right start in life is as important as giving a child the right start. Creating good habits that include regular exercise and feeding an optimum diet that will encourage maximum growth potential while reducing the risk of disease is the ultimate goal.
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I feed 25% protien, 15% fat, moisten with my own stew mix
LIFETIME Chicken & Oatmeal diet is formulated to exceed the AAFCO requirements for All Life Stages
We choose nutrient rich premium ingredients to provide essential nutrients and enhanced palatability.
This superior quality combined with selected world class manufacturing works synergistically to provide
Optimal Nutrition for your family’s Best Friend
.Ingredients: Chicken Meal, Oatmeal, Whole Barley, Whole Brown Rice, Chicken & Turkey Fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E),
Canola Meal, Beet Pulp (sugar removed), Rice Bran, Natural Flavours, Flaxseed, Herring Oil (source of DHA/EPA), Sodium Chloride, Potassium Chloride,
Calcium carbonate, Dicalcium phosphate, Mannanoligosaccharides (MOS), Chicory Inulin (FOS), Glucosamine Hydrochloride, Yucca Schidigera Extract,
Chondroitin sulphate, (Vitamins) Vitamin supplements (A,D,E), Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Thiamine Mononitrate, Biotin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride,
Vitamin B12, Vitamin K, Folic Acid (Minerals) Zinc Sulphate, Ferrous Sulphate, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite, Chelated Minerals (Zinc, Copper, Manganese, Iron), Manganese Sulphate, Copper Sulphate .
This can be brought at Shur= Gain Feeds & Needs.
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ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES, which can cause gastrointestinal irritation, drunkenness, tremors, difficult breathing and/or panting, coma and even death. Always place unattended drinks where your dog cannot reach them;
AVOCADOS, ingestion of which can result in respiratory distress and the accumulation of fluid around the heart;
CHOCOLATE in all forms—baking, semi-sweet, milk and dark—can be potentially poisonous to dogs, depending on the amount eaten. Vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, hyperactivity and increased thirst, urination and heart rate can be seen with the ingestion of as little as ¼ ounce of baking chocolate by a 10-pound dog;
All forms of COFFEE, including the grounds and beans, can cause the same symptoms as chocolate;
GRAPES and RAISINS, which may be toxic to some dogs. Depending on the amount ingested, clinical signs can range from vomiting to life-threatening kidney failure. As much is still to be discovered about the toxic principle in these fruits--and as it is not yet clear if chronic, long-term ingestion can also lead to toxicosis--it is advised that you do not give your dogs grapes or raisins in any amount;
MOLDY or SPOILED FOOD, which may contain molds that can result in GI irritation, tremors, seizures and death. Spoiled food may also contain bacteria that can cause severe food poisoning;
ONIONS, GARLIC and CHIVES, which can lead to GI upset and damage red blood cells;
SALT and SALTY FOODS can result in sodium ion poisoning, symptoms of which include regurgitation, tremors, excessive thirst, diarrhea, high temperature and seizures. If enough salt is consumed, death can also result;
While the ripe red fruit of the TOMATO is not a potential problem, the leaves, stem and unripe fruit are. Ingestion of these can cause GI upset, excess salivation, drowsiness, dilated pupils and weakness. The same symptoms can be seen with the ingestion of any green plant parts of the potato;
Candies and gum that contain the sweetener XYLITOL can also cause problems in dogs—a fairly sudden drop in blood sugar, resulting in depression and seizures--especially if large amounts are eaten;
YEAST DOUGH can be double trouble for dogs. As it rises, the dough can expand the GI tract, possibly causing the intestine to rupture. The yeast can also form alcohol as it rises, leading to alcohol poisoning;
experts further caution canine caretakers to be careful when it comes to fatty meats and spicy foods.
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In Danes, severe reactions have become enough of a problem that the Great Dane club of America has funded research into protocols used by veterinarians. Some 5200 cases have been evaluated, but it is highly probable that there are many more that have been misdiagnosed as HOD.
Before you accept a diagnosis of nutritional HOD, have a blood test done to rule out septic infections, vaccine reactions, and other arthritic conditions. As an aside, some vets will skip the blood tests and go straight to antibiotics for treating the problem. Insist on the blood test, and be very careful about antibiotics–some will cause even more problems with Danes. Check it out at http://www.greatdanelady.com/articles/vaccine_reactions_in_great_danes.htm to find out which antibiotics to avoid.
Vaccine reactions in Danes
Treatment: if your puppy does react within a few days of vaccination, the joints will be hugely swollen, the pup will have a very high fever, be very lethargic, and there will be no doubt that something is terribly wrong. The first thing to do is go to the vet! They may wish to use dexamethazone steroids to control the inflammation. If you catch it really early, you might have a chance to pull them through, but prepare yourself for having to euthanize. It’s heartwrenching. For more information on treatment, check out this site. http://www.greatdanelady.com/articles/vaccine_reactions_in_great_danes.htm
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Does my dog need a “booster shot” for rabies, distemper, and parvovirus every year?
The American Animal Hospital Association, The American Veterinary Medical Association, the American Association of Feline Practitioners, and School of Veterinary Medicine, as well as the Department of Public Health have revised their recommendations for pet vaccinations.
Annual vaccinations for diseases like Rabies, Distemper and Parvovirus are no longer recommended.
The duration of immunity for these vaccines has been scientifically proven to be over 7 years, and probably the life of the pet. More importantly, it has been proven that re-administration of these vaccines does not make the patient more immune. The immunity induced by the first vaccine blocks the next vaccine. The client is paying for something with no effect; except that the pet is being exposed the unnecessary risk of an adverse reaction.
Oklahoma State University (OSU) reccommends the 6, 9, 12, 16 week vaccination schedule, using “high titer, low passage” vaccines. This is conventional, and most vets will follow this protocol. But not all. Below is a one conservative protocol to consider using for Danes, developed by Dr. Jean Dodds, to more safely immunize giant breed puppies. If you have any questions or concerns, you or your vet can contact Dr. Dodds by phone 310-828-4804; Fax 310-828-8251, or e-mail: hemopet@hotmail.com
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9 – 10 weeks – Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy DPV)
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12-14 weeks – Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy DPV)
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20 weeks or older, if allowable by law – Rabies (6 months or Older and always given alone is preferred)
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1 year (optional) – Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV
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1 year – Rabies, killed 3-year product (give 3-4 weeks apart from distemper/parvovirus booster)
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